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Japanese Hakama & Kataginu

Folkwear – sewing patterns for ethnic & historic clothing & costumes

Folkwear

Description

During the Edo period in Japan (1615–1868), members of the samurai or warrior class wore the Kamishimo, a traditional costume made up of the Kataginu or pleated-front vest and Hakama or pleated pants/skirt. The two garments were typically worn over a knee-length kimono for formal occasions. Today, the garments are frequently worn for official occasions, martial arts, and historic re-enactment.

This pattern gives you complete instructions for cutting and pleating the traditional Hakama in any size and includes pattern pieces for Small, Medium-Large, and Sumo-Size Koshiita (Backboard) and Koshiita Triangles. For contemporary sportswear, pattern also includes instructions for optional side panels to fill in the side-seam gaps that expose the underlying kimono in traditional wear.

The wide-shoulder Kataginu can be made to match the Hakama for a traditional samurai appearance or as a contrasting wearable art accent. Easy to pleat and sew, it completes a dramatic outfit.

Suggested fabrics: For Kataginu: Crisp, tightly woven cottons; linens and linen blends; ramie; hemp; silks, including shantung, habotae, pongee, satin, or taffeta. Note: You may have to starch fabric to preserve pleats. For Hakama: Same as Kataginu, but also lightweight wool suiting.

Multi-sized: For men & women based on waist size